Fashion and Textiles

The Culture: Hip Hop and Contemporary Art in the 21st Century by Asma Naeem (Editor); Gamynne Guillotte (Introduction by); Hannah Klemm (Introduction by); Andréa Purnell (Introduction by) A sweeping survey of hip hop's resounding impact on contemporary art and culture across the past 20-plus years Accompanying a groundbreaking exhibition originating at the Baltimore Museum of Art, this book captures the extraordinary influence of hip hop, which has driven innovations in music, visual and performing arts, fashion, and technology and grown into a global phenomenon since its emergence in the 1970s. It features approximately 70 objects by both established and emerging artists, design houses, streetwear icons and musicians working in a wide range of mediums to demonstrate hip hop's proliferation from the street to the runway, the studio to the museum gallery, and countless sites in between. The exhibition also explores how hip hop has and continues to challenge structures of power, dominant cultural narratives, and political and social systems of oppression. This fully illustrated monograph documents the exhibition and contains texts and interviews from more than 30 artists and scholars. Artists include: Nina Chanel Abney, Dionne Alexander, Maxwell Alexandre, Devin Allen, Alvaro Barrington, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Grace Wales Bonner, Mark Bradford, Jordan Casteel, Willy Chavarria, Caitlin Cherry, Troy Chew II, William Cordova, Carl Jones, Stan Douglas, John Edmonds, Gajin Fujita, Monica Ikegwu, Shabez Jamal, Kahlil Joseph, Nia June, LA II, Deana Lawson, Eric N. Mack, Emmanuel Massillon, Julie Mehretu, Murjoni Merriweather, Jayson Musson, Rashaad Newsome, Yvonne Osei, Zéh Palito, Gordon Parks, Adam Pendleton, Robert Pruitt, Rammellzee, Sheila Rashid, Rozeal, Joyce J. Scott, Tschabalala Self, Tariku Shiferaw, Devan Shimoyama, Hank Willis Thomas, Carrie Mae Weems, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, Abbey Williams, Pharrell Williams and Wilmer Wilson IV. Authors include: Ebony Haynes, Todd Boyd, Lester Spence, Jordana Moore Saggese, Greg Tate, Misa Hylton, Elena Romero, Ekow Eshun, Devin Allen, Michael Holman, Simone White, Salome Asega, Alphonse Pierre, David A.M. Goldberg and Tahir Hemphill, Jacolby Satterwhite, Wendel Patrick, Simon Reynolds, Seph Rodney, Jesse McCarthy, Danez Smith, Noriko Manabe, Lindsay Knight and Charity Marsh, Shaheem Sanchez, Jeffrey Q. McCune, Jr., Sekou Cooke, Jessica N. Pabón-Colón, Martha Cooper, Skeme, Alex de Mora and Lawrence Burney.

Deganit Stern Schocken: How Many Is One by Liesbeth Den Besten The oeuvre of Deganit Stern Schocken (b. 1947) has delved into the socio-political question of place, creating works in which text is incorporated as an integral part of the object.

Diva! Italian Glamour in Fashion Jewellery by Alba Cappellieri (Editor) "A book about costume jewelry and its creative intersections with Italian excellence, Diva! presents 200 Italian fashion jewels from the Dolce Vita of the 1950s to the Prêt-à-Porter of the 1980s, from the minimalism of the 1990s to the neobaroque of the new millennium, telling a typically Italian story--one that combines creativity and manufacturing, craft and industry, art and technology, beauty and innovation. Designers include: Enzo Pirozzi, Agalma Medusae di Giovanna Micali, Verde Alfieri, Algares di Alba Gallizia, Anna e Alex, Aonie, Rosalba Balsamo, Barbara Biffoli, Giulia Boccafogli, Bea Bongiasca, Mario Bottiglieri, Valentina Brugnatelli, Ca&Lou, Maria Calderara, Ida Callegaro, Fabio Cammarata, Barbara Cardamone, CARDILLO_design, MW di Maria Jennifer Carew, Elisabetta Carozzi, Monica Castiglioni, Rossella Catapano, Vittorio Ceccoli, Cristina Chiari, Sandra Di Giacinto Design, Sandra Dipinto and Eandare di Lucilla Giovanninetti."--Vendor website.

Fashion Army by Nicol, Matthieu "Fashion Army investigates the evolution of military attire into iconic fashion. French visual researcher Matthieu Nicol presents a catalogue of three hundred and fifty documentary images from the declassified US Army Natick Labs archive, tracing military style from the late 1960s to the early 1990s. These images showcase the meticulous development of clothing and gear designed for both the battlefield and everyday military life, highlighting the profound connection between fashion, power, and aesthetics. Through this ambiguous and compelling sequence, Fashion Army offers a nuanced account of style, innovation, and the far-reaching influence of military apparel on fashion and identity, ultimately interrogating the signifiers of violence embedded in such attire. Includes an essay by renowned fashion critic Angelo Flaccavento, reflecting on the interplay between military functionality and the fashion industry."-- mackbooks,us website viewed October 17, 2024.

Female View by Antje-Britt Mählmann (Editor); Nadine Barth (Text by); Monika Frank (Text by); Eugenie Shinkle (Text by); Diana Weis (Text by) "Although the medium of photography has been shaped by women for decades, most photo publications and exhibitions have focused primarily on the male gaze of the female body. Throughout the 20th and 21st centuries, countless female photographers have worked for influential magazines such as Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, shaping the style of their time. This book traces the transformation of the photographic image from the 1930s to the present day: from the fashion magazine to the showroom and the coffee-table book to videos and digital self-staging in social media today. Photographers include: Lillian Bassman, Sibylle Bergemann, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Corinne Day, Madame d'Ora, Ingeborg Hoppe, Nadine Ijewere, Ute Mahler, Charlotte March, Sarah Moon, Amber Pinkerton, Elizaveta Porodina, Regina Relang, Bettina Rheims, Alice Springs (June Newton), Deborah Turbeville, Ellen von Unwerth and Yva, among others."-- Publisher's description.

Folds by Lilli Hollein (Editor); Mio Wakita-Elis (Editor) Fans, screens and human faces all feature in this delightful book dedicated to the nature of folds We are surrounded by folds: in our clothes, on our bodies, even in our basic motions. Presenting a chronologically, spatially and materially heterogeneous selection of historical and contemporary objects, this book invites its readers to embark on an intellectual and cultural voyage of discovery.

Garmenting by Alexandra Schwartz (Editor); Lydia Brawner (Text by); Rhonda Garelick (Text by); Karin Oen (Text by); Jonathan Square (Text by) "Garmenting: Costume as Contemporary Art centers on contemporary artists' explorations of how dress both expresses and shapes who we are-our personal, cultural, and political identities-and it is my hope that their work will help stimulate discussion and foster understanding during these troubled times. As the quintessential "outside the box" thinkers, artists have always been on the front lines of driving and processing social change; there is a reason cutting-edge art has long been referred to by a military term, "avant-garde." As society rebuilds, artists' insights about our world and how we inhabit it are more necessary than ever"-- Provided by publisher.

Indigenous Woman by Martine Gutierrez This is not a magazine about fashion, lifestyle, or celebrity. Indigenous Woman is an independent art publication dedicated to the celebration of Mayan Indian heritage, the navigation of contemporary indigeneity, and the ever-evolving self-image. It is a vision, an overture, a provocation. The word "indigenous" here is used to refer to native cultures from a particular region, but also as a synonym for the natural and innate. It signifies a real, authentic, native-born woman. There was a time when I believed there was no such title for me to claim. I was driven to question how identity is formed, expressed, valued, and weighed as a woman, as a transwoman, as a latinx woman, as a woman of indigenous descent, as a femme artist and maker? It is nearly impossible to arrive at any finite answers, but for me, this process of exploration is exquisitely life-affirming. ... Indigenous Woman marries the traditional to the contemporary, the native to the post-colonial, and the marginalized to the mainstream in the pursuit of genuine selfhood, revealing cultural inequities along the way. This is a quest for identity. Of my own specifically, yes, but by digging my pretty, painted nails deeply into the dirt of my own image I am also probing the depths for some understanding of identity as a social construction"--Artist's statement

Italian textile design : from art deco to the contemporary : printed textiles by Linfante, Vittorio, editor "From experiments by Lucio Fontana and Gio Ponti to Emilio Pucci's kaleidoscopic motifs and Germana Marucelli's optical patterns; from Roberta di Camerino's trompe l'oeil effects to the pop sensibilities of Ken Scott, Elio Fiorucci, Gianni Versace, and Franco Moschino; from the work on the heritage by Prada, Marni, and Valentino to the valorisation of Missoni's corporate archive and the hybrid graphic designs by Maison Laponte, Gentile Catone, Colomba Leddi and IUTER, these artists, fashion designers, and companies helped create the worldwide fame of Italian fabrics from the early twentieth century to contemporary times. A history closely entwined with the concept of 'Made in Italy,' contributing significantly to Italy's international reputation as a citadel of high-quality fashion and design. Over 500 illustrations, photographs, and preparatory drawings, many previously unpublished, from corporate and private archives, recount some of Italy's most important creative achievements."--Supplied by publisher.

Kimono by Anna Jackson (Editor) "The kimono is the ultimate symbol of Japan, revered within the country as the embodiment of national culture and regarded internationally as an exotic fascination. The iconic garment is often viewed as traditional, unchanging and timeless, but this book counters that conception, presenting the kimono as highly dynamic and fashionable dress. The cultural and sartorial significance of the kimono is explored in historical and contemporary contexts, both in Japan and the West, where its impact on clothing styles has been felt since the seventeenth century. Beautifully illustrated, the book features over 250 kimono and kimono-inspired garments from the V&A and collections around the world, revealing its sartorial influence on pop stars from David Bowie to Björk and examining the ways in which fashion designers such as Issey Miyake, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen have reworked its legacy."--publisher's description.

Lee Alexander Mcqueen: Mind, Mythos, Muse by Linda Komaroff (Text by); Leah Lehmbeck (Text by); Erin Maynes (Text by); Rosie Mills (Text by); Mei Mei Rado (Text by); Britt Salvesen (Text by); Lee Alexander McQueen (Artist); Clarissa M. Esguerra (Editor); Michaela Hansen (Editor); Meghan Doherty (Text by) McQueen's iconic fashion juxtaposed with historic textiles and works of art, revealing the designer's dynamic approach to storytelling One of the most significant contributors to fashion between 1990 and 2010, British designer Lee Alexander McQueen was both a conceptual and a technical virtuoso. His critically acclaimed collections synthesized his unique training in Savile Row tailoring, theatrical design and haute couture with a remarkable breadth and depth of encyclopedic and autobiographical references spanning time, geography, mediums and technology. McQueen's singular viewpoint produced exquisitely constructed, thought-provoking, often subversive or allegorical fashion. Taking a reflective look at McQueen's artful design process, this book documents the designer's diverse sources of inspiration by displaying McQueen's imaginative fashions alongside related artworks. McQueen's encyclopedic references range from ancient Greece and Rome to Tibetan silk brocade patterns, 17th-century Dutch painting, the prints of Goya and the films of Stanley Kubrick. In each of these cases and beyond, examples of McQueen's imaginative and extraordinary work are displayed alongside artworks from LACMA's permanent collection. Spanning art from a multitude of mediums, eras and cultures, this publication provides a new and innovative assessment of McQueen's work and highlights his mindful approach to storytelling and construction through fashion. Lee Alexander McQueen (1969-2010) was one of the most important fashion designers at the turn of the 21st century. In 2011, following his death, the Costume Institute in New York organized an enormously successful retrospective of his work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Outlaws by Martin Green; N. J. Stevenson 'Dress as though your life depends on it or don't bother.' (Leigh Bowery, 1985) Outlaws pays homage to the boundary-pushing fashion and styling that defined London's vibrant 1980s club scene, celebrating the anarchic energy and experimental flair of Leigh Bowery and his fellow fashion renegades, who pioneered a unique and daring creative movement. Bowery, an Australian-born performance artist and fashion designer, was the central figure of this movement, and he and his circle of friends sparked an explosion of outrageous fashion. Outlaws features specially commissioned photography of original outfits crafted by 28 trailblazing clothes designers, including John Galliano, Stephen Linard, Bodymap, Pam Hogg, Rachel Auburn, Wayne Hemingway and Bowery himself. These are accompanied by interviews with icons of 1980s clubland such as musician Holly Johnson, DJ Mark Moore and artists Peter Doig and Dave Baby, while stories from those who wore the pieces are entwined with clubland flyers and rarely seen photos of the styling on show at clubs such as Taboo, the legendary weekly club night Bowery founded in 1985 in Leicester Square. The scene also encompassed art, photography, film and music and was a vibrant marker in LGBTQ+ history. It forged a creative community of people who together influenced and changed the landscape of British popular culture in the mid-1980s. Outlaws pays homage to their remarkable talents.

Radical Fashion Exercises by Laura Gardner (Contribution by); Daphine Mohajer va Pesaran (Contribution by) Over one hundred tried, tested, and speculative exercises that expand the way we look at fashion, how we are part of its system, and how we can practice fashion otherwise. Radical Fashion Exercise contains a copious collection of bottom-up activities, prompts, and workshops designed by contributors (from all around the globe), who explore fashion in an expanded field. Designers, curators, artists, educators, fashion practitioners, DIY sewers, students, and other creatives responded to the book's open call with contributions that challenge how to practice fashion and reflect on its systems, politics and economics. The exercises collected in this book embrace interdisciplinarity, experimentation, and aesthetics and widen fashion's horizons as a medium for expression, embodiment and sociality. The exercises are gathered under the following themes: Imagining and Dreaming; Going Outside; Using the Body; Working Together; Reading and Writing; Making, Finding, Tracing; Re-viewing Images; Digging Deep; and Sourcing and Re-sourcing. Radical Fashion Exercises assembles methods for learning and practicing fashion in meaningful, radical and responsible ways. The book is an inspiring tool for design students, designers, writers, and practitioners of diverse disciplines to challenges fashion as a commodity and polluting structure in these times of uncertainty and upheaval.

Radical Fiber: Threads Connecting Art and Science by Rebecca McNamara (Editor); Ian Berry (Contribution by); Trisha Andrew (Contribution by); Preeti Arya (Contribution by); Nurcan Atalan-Helicke (Contribution by) Can crochet explain the complexities of non-Euclidean geometry? How does the 1804 Jacquard loom relate to modern computing? Radical Fiber celebrates the overlap between art, science, interdisciplinary creativity and collaborative learning For centuries, fiber arts have influenced sciences as diverse as digital technology, mathematics, neuroscience, medicine and more. Radical Fiber explores this relationship through contemporary art and historical artifacts that address five key themes: shape, machine, body, brain and community. How did the accidental discovery of synthetic mauveine dye in 1856 pave the way for modern pharmaceuticals while also generating toxic waste? Why do we respond differently to a woven photograph than a printed one? These and other questions reframe the fiber/science intersection and ask how the medium can be used to improve our world for the future. Radical Fiber features a new artwork created by amateur and professional makers around the globe: the Saratoga Springs Satellite Reef, part of the Crochet Coral Reef project by Christine and Margaret Wertheim and the Institute For Figuring. Alongside numerous unidentified artists, additional artists and creators include: Lia Cook, Brock Craft, Veronica Dry, Anna Dumitriu, Ellis Developments, Hanne Kekkonen, Kintra Fibers, Elaine Krajenke Ellison, Karen Norberg, William Henry Perkin, Helen Remick, Dario Robleto, Daniela Rosner, Samantha Shorey, John Sims, Soft Monitor (Victoria Manganiello and Julian Goldman), Daina Taimina, Cecilia Vicun?a and Carolyn Yackel.

STRING : ōhata masato ātowākusu zōkei tekunikku by 大畠雅人.; Ōhata, Masato. The book covers everything from sketching in ZBrush, sculpting, to advanced techniques in MarvelousDesigner for creating clothes and shoes, making translucent vinyl, and painting lifelike skin textures. It thoroughly and clearly explains the tricks and techniques behind creating attractive sculptures, including supple arms and legs, faces that change expression depending on the viewing angle, and realistic details in shirts, shoes, and accessories.

Textile Textures: Multithreaded Narratives by Marta Kowalewska (Editor); Aneta Dalbiak (Text by); Jakub Gawkowski (Text by); Jessica Hemmings (Text by); Janis Jefferies (Text by) The new definitive reader on contemporary textiles, approaching the medium from academic, curatorial and personal perspectives With an exposed spine binding and packaged in a softcover slipcase, Textile Textures is a collective volume that grows out of the project Interweaving Structures: Fabric as Material, Method and Message, organized jointly by the Central Museum of Textiles in Lódz, the Faculty of Fine Arts, Music and Design at the University of Bergen, and the Doctoral School of the Jan Matejko Academy of Fine Arts in Krakow. By virtue of its use and construction, textiles interweave a variety of different themes. Thus the book's uniqueness lies in its multifaceted treatment of the medium. Each essay takes a different methodological or personal approach in the form of a "thread," be it curatorial, postcolonial, industrial or traditional. These chapters are illustrated with work by contemporary artists, some of whom use textiles as their main medium and others who encounter it only sparingly.

Textures by Tameka Ellington (Editor); Joseph L. Underwood (Editor) "Textures synthesizes research in history, fashion, art, and visual culture to reassess the "hair story" of peoples of African descent. Long a fraught topic for African Americans and others in the diaspora, Black hair is here addressed by artists, barbers, and activists in both its historical perceptions and its ramifications for self and society today. Combs, products, and implements from the collection of hair pioneer Willie Morrow are paired here with masterworks from artists like Sonya Clark, Lorna Simpson, Mickalene Thomas, and Alison Saar. Exploring topics such as the preferential treatment of straight hair, the social hierarchies of skin, and the power and politics of display, Textures is a landmark exploration of Black hair and its important, complicated place in the history of African American life and culture."--Google Books "Artists: Hector Acebes, Derrick Adams, Karo Akpokiere, Deborah Anzinger, Keturah Ariel, April Bey, Charles Bohannah, Margaret Bowland, Nakeya Brown, Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux, Tawny Chatmon, Sonya Clark, David Driskell, Sarah Duah, Andrew Esiebo, Joseph Eze, Amber Ford, Yrneh Gabon, Olaf Hajek, Nakazzi Hutchinson, Shara K. Johnson, Eric Lafforgue, Annie Lee, Delita Martin, Charlotte Mensah, Lebohang Motaung, Zanele Muholi, Althea Murphy-Price, Nontsikelelo Mutiti, Woodrow Nash, Sharon Norwood, Glenford Nuñez, Charly Palmer, Gordon Parks, Faith Ringgold, Lezley Saar, Augusta Savage, Ngozi Schommers, Devan Shimoyama, Mary Sibande, Lorna Simpson, Nelson Stevens, Ibrahima Thiam, James Van Der Zee, Lina Viktor, Nafis White, Kehinde Wiley, Masa Zodros (and dozens of unidentified artists across African and American people groups)."--Publisher website

Vitamin T: Threads and Textiles in Contemporary Art by Phaidon Editors; Jenelle Porter A global survey of more than 100 artists, chosen by art-world professionals for their work with threads, stitching, and textiles. Celebrating tapestry, embroidery, stitching, textiles, knitting, and knotting as used by visual artists worldwide, Vitamin T is the latest in the celebrated series in which leading curators, critics, and art professionals nominate living artists for inclusion. As boundaries between art and craft have blurred, artists have increasingly embraced these materials and methods, with the resulting works being coveted by collectors and exhibited in museums worldwide. Vitamin T is a vibrant and incredibly timely survey -- the first of its kind--Publisher's description.

The Wig by Luigi Amara "Whether in a courtroom or a dressing room, wigs come in many forms and represent many things: from power, to sexuality, parody, health, self-identity, and disguise. Wigs are present at parties and in chemotherapy rooms, in pop music and contemporary art. In this witty and eloquent book, Luigi Amara reflects on the curious history of the wig and along the way takes a sideways look at Western civilization. Amara shines light on the starring role played by the wig throughout history, from ancient Egypt to the court of Louis XIV, and from British courtrooms to drag shows today. Containing many striking and unusual images, the book will appeal to a wide audience, from those interested in the history of fashion to readers of philosophy, art, culture, and aesthetics"--Publisher's description.

Worn by Sofi Thanhauser A NEW YORKER BEST BOOK OF THE YEAR * A sweeping and captivatingly told history of clothing and the stuff it is made of--an unparalleled deep-dive into how everyday garments have transformed our lives, our societies, and our planet. "We learn that, if we were a bit more curious about our clothes, they would offer us rich, interesting and often surprising insights into human history...a deep and sustained inquiry into the origins of what we wear, and what we have worn for the past 500 years." --The Washington Post In this panoramic social history, Sofi Thanhauser brilliantly tells five stories--Linen, Cotton, Silk, Synthetics, Wool--about the clothes we wear and where they come from, illuminating our world in unexpected ways. She takes us from the opulent court of Louis XIV to the labor camps in modern-day Chinese-occupied Xinjiang. We see how textiles were once dyed with lichen, shells, bark, saffron, and beetles, displaying distinctive regional weaves and knits, and how the modern Western garment industry has refashioned our attire into the homogenous and disposable uniforms popularized by fast-fashion brands. Thanhauser makes clear how the clothing industry has become one of the planet's worst polluters and how it relies on chronically underpaid and exploited laborers. But she also shows us how micro-communities, textile companies, and clothing makers in every corner of the world are rediscovering ancestral and ethical methods for making what we wear. Drawn from years of intensive research and reporting from around the world, and brimming with fascinating stories, Worn reveals to us that our clothing comes not just from the countries listed on the tags or ready-made from our factories. It comes, as well, from deep in our histories.